You’ve plugged your keyboard, mouse, webcam, and phone charger into your laptop and discovered it has exactly two USB ports. One of them is currently occupied by your USB-C monitor cable. You’re unplugging the webcam to charge your phone, then unplugging the phone to use the webcam for a meeting, and this absurd game of musical chairs happens three times a day. A USB hub fixes this for under £30, but the range of options — USB-A, USB-C, powered, unpowered, 4-port, 7-port, with Ethernet, without — makes a simple purchase unnecessarily confusing.
In This Article
- What a USB Hub Does (and Doesn’t Do)
- USB-A vs USB-C Hubs
- Powered vs Unpowered
- How Many Ports Do You Actually Need?
- Hub vs Docking Station
- Data Transfer Speeds Explained
- Features Worth Paying For
- UK Buying Recommendations
- Common Problems and Fixes
- Frequently Asked Questions
What a USB Hub Does (and Doesn’t Do)
A USB hub splits one USB port into several. Plug the hub into your laptop, and where you had one port you now have four, seven, or more. Peripherals connect to the hub instead of directly to your computer.
What It Does
- Expands your port count — the primary purpose. Turn 1-2 laptop ports into 4-10+
- Centralises your connections — everything plugs into one hub on your desk instead of reaching behind your laptop
- Adds port types you’re missing — many hubs include SD card readers, HDMI output, or Ethernet alongside USB ports
What It Doesn’t Do
- It doesn’t add bandwidth. All the devices on the hub share the bandwidth of the single port they’re connected through. Plugging five USB 3.0 devices into a hub connected to one USB 3.0 port means they share 5 Gbps total, not 5 Gbps each
- It doesn’t charge power-hungry devices (unless it’s a powered hub). An unpowered hub passes through whatever power the laptop’s USB port provides, split between all connected devices. If you plug in three bus-powered devices and a phone, something won’t get enough power
USB-A vs USB-C Hubs
USB-A Hubs
The traditional rectangular USB connector. USB-A hubs plug into the standard USB-A ports found on virtually every computer. They’re cheap, simple, and universally compatible.
Best for: desktop PCs and older laptops that have USB-A ports. If your computer has full-size USB ports available, a USB-A hub is the simplest, cheapest option.
USB-C Hubs
USB-C is the smaller, reversible connector that’s become standard on modern laptops. USB-C hubs plug into a USB-C or Thunderbolt port and often add a variety of connection types:
- USB-A ports — for your existing peripherals
- USB-C ports — for newer devices and power pass-through
- HDMI — for connecting an external monitor
- SD/microSD card slots — useful for photographers
- Ethernet — for a wired network connection
Best for: modern laptops (especially MacBooks and ultrabooks) where USB-C is the only port type. A USB-C hub replaces the ports the laptop manufacturer removed.
For a deeper look at how monitors connect, our guide to USB-C monitors explains the display side of things.
Powered vs Unpowered
This is the decision most people get wrong, and it causes the most frustration.
Unpowered (Bus-Powered) Hubs
Draw all their power from the host computer’s USB port. Simple and portable — just plug in and go, no external power supply needed.
Limitations: a standard USB 3.0 port provides 4.5W (900mA at 5V). Split that between four devices and each gets about 1.1W. That’s enough for a mouse, keyboard, and maybe a webcam. It’s not enough for external hard drives, phones charging quickly, or multiple power-hungry devices.
Powered Hubs
Come with their own power adapter that plugs into the mains. Each port gets full power regardless of how many devices are connected.
When you need a powered hub:
- Charging phones or tablets while using other peripherals
- External hard drives or SSDs — bus-powered drives often fail to mount on unpowered hubs because they don’t get enough power
- Multiple webcams, audio interfaces, or other bus-powered devices
- More than 4 devices — the more you connect, the more power you need
The Rule of Thumb
If you’re connecting only low-power peripherals (keyboard, mouse, USB receiver), an unpowered hub is fine. If you’re connecting anything that charges, stores data, or has its own power needs, get a powered hub. When in doubt, go powered — the extra £10-15 prevents random disconnections and device failures.
How Many Ports Do You Actually Need?
The Audit
Count what you actually plug in daily:
- Keyboard — 1 port (or wireless with a USB receiver — still 1 port)
- Mouse — 1 port (or wireless receiver shared with keyboard — check if your mouse/keyboard share one Logitech Unifying receiver)
- Webcam — 1 port
- Phone charging — 1 port
- External drive — 1 port
- Headset — 1 port (USB headsets) or 0 (if using 3.5mm or Bluetooth)
- Misc — USB sticks, card readers, game controllers
How Many to Buy
Take your count and add 2. You’ll always connect something you forgot about — a USB stick from a colleague, a new peripheral, a desk lamp with USB charging. Running out of ports defeats the purpose.
- 4-port hub — minimum useful size. Fine if you genuinely only need a keyboard, mouse, and one or two extras
- 7-port hub — the sweet spot for most desk setups. Enough for everything plus room to grow
- 10+ port hub — for heavy users with multiple monitors, drives, and peripherals. Usually powered
Hub vs Docking Station
What’s the Difference?
A hub adds ports. A docking station adds ports AND handles display output, charging, and network connectivity through a single cable.
Docking stations typically include:
- Multiple USB-A and USB-C ports
- 1-2 HDMI or DisplayPort outputs for external monitors
- Ethernet port
- SD card reader
- Power delivery (charging your laptop through the dock cable)
Price difference: a good USB-C hub costs £20-50. A docking station costs £80-200+.
Which Do You Need?
If you just need more USB ports, buy a hub. If you want a one-cable solution that connects your laptop to monitors, ethernet, power, and peripherals simultaneously, a docking station is worth the investment — especially for a permanent desk setup where you connect and disconnect a laptop daily.
For more on this, our guide to choosing a docking station covers the decision in detail.
Data Transfer Speeds Explained
USB 2.0 — 480 Mbps
Old but still everywhere. Fine for keyboards, mice, and webcams that transfer tiny amounts of data. Not usable for external drives or anything involving large file transfers.
USB 3.0 (USB 3.2 Gen 1) — 5 Gbps
The current standard for most peripherals. Transfers a 1GB file in about 2 seconds. Good enough for external hard drives and most everyday use. The ports are identifiable by their blue plastic inserts.
USB 3.1 (USB 3.2 Gen 2) — 10 Gbps
Double the speed of USB 3.0. Useful if you’re regularly transferring large files to fast external SSDs. Most people won’t notice the difference for everyday peripherals.
USB 3.2 Gen 2×2 — 20 Gbps
Rare on hubs. Mainly found on high-end docking stations and direct motherboard ports. For professional video editors transferring 4K footage.
USB4 / Thunderbolt 4 — 40 Gbps
The fastest available. Found on premium laptops (MacBook Pro, high-end ThinkPads). Thunderbolt 4 docks can drive dual 4K displays, transfer files at extreme speeds, and deliver 100W of laptop charging through a single cable.
What Speed Do You Need?
For most desk setups, USB 3.0 (5 Gbps) is plenty. Your keyboard and mouse use a tiny fraction of that bandwidth. Only invest in faster USB 3.1+ or Thunderbolt hubs if you regularly transfer large files or use high-bandwidth devices like external NVMe drives.
Features Worth Paying For
Individual Port Switches
Some hubs have power switches on each port. Press to enable, press to disable — without unplugging anything. Useful for devices you don’t need running constantly (desk fans, LED strips, phone chargers overnight).
Aluminium Build
Plastic hubs are fine functionally but aluminium models dissipate heat better and feel more substantial on a desk. Worth the extra £5-10 if you’re leaving it visible on your desk. They also match MacBook aesthetics, which matters to some people.
Cable Length
Check the cable length before buying. Many hubs have cables under 30cm, which keeps them dangling from the side of a laptop rather than sitting flat on a desk. A 50cm+ cable gives you positioning flexibility. Some hubs have detachable cables — the most versatile option.
USB-C Power Delivery Pass-Through
On USB-C hubs, this lets you charge your laptop through the hub while using the other ports. Without it, the hub occupies your only USB-C port and you can’t charge simultaneously. For laptop users, this feature is essential.
UK Buying Recommendations
Best Budget USB-A Hub: Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub (about £12)
Simple, reliable, bus-powered. Does one thing well — adds four USB-A ports. Plug it in and forget about it. Available from Amazon UK. Our guide to desk accessories covers how this fits into a complete desk setup.
Best USB-C Hub: Anker PowerExpand 8-in-1 (about £40-50)
USB-C plug with HDMI, 2× USB-A, 1× USB-C, SD/microSD reader, and 100W power delivery pass-through. Covers every port type a modern laptop needs in one compact aluminium body. The go-to choice for MacBook users.
Best Powered Hub: Sabrent 7-Port USB 3.0 Hub (about £25-30)
Seven USB-A ports with individual power switches and an included power adapter. Every port delivers full power. Excellent for desks with multiple bus-powered peripherals and charging needs.
Best Docking Station: CalDigit TS4 (about £350)
18 ports including Thunderbolt 4, 2.5Gb Ethernet, SD card reader, and 98W laptop charging. The best dock available for MacBook Pro and premium Windows laptops. Expensive, but it replaces every other adapter and hub on your desk.
For ergonomic desk organisation ideas, our guide to creating a home office in a small flat covers space-efficient setups.
USB Hubs for Common Desk Setups
The Work-From-Home Laptop Setup
The most common UK setup: a laptop that you open on a desk, connect to a monitor, keyboard, and mouse, and disconnect at the end of the day. For this, a USB-C hub with HDMI output and power delivery pass-through is ideal — one cable connects the laptop to the hub, and the hub handles everything else.
Typical connections: HDMI to monitor, USB-A for keyboard, USB-A for mouse receiver, USB-A for webcam, USB-C for phone charging. A 7-in-1 or 8-in-1 USB-C hub covers all of this in a single, compact unit.
The Desktop PC Power User
Desktop PCs usually have plenty of rear USB ports but reaching them requires crawling behind the desk. A front-of-desk USB-A hub gives you convenient access for USB sticks, phone charging, and temporary device connections while keeping permanent peripherals plugged into the back.
A powered 7-port USB-A hub on your desk, plus the motherboard’s rear ports, gives you 10-15 total USB connections — enough for any setup.
The Dual Monitor Creative Setup
Photographers, video editors, and designers often need SD card access, multiple external drives, and dual monitors. A Thunderbolt 4 docking station is the only option that handles all of this through a single cable — dual display output, fast data transfer, and full power delivery. Expensive, but the productivity gain is real.
For the occasional SD card read without a full dock, a USB-C hub with an integrated SD reader (like the Anker PowerExpand 8-in-1) costs a tenth of a Thunderbolt dock and handles most needs.
The Minimal Setup
If you use wireless peripherals (Bluetooth keyboard, Bluetooth mouse, wireless headset), you might only need a hub for the occasional USB stick or phone charge. A tiny 4-port unpowered hub that lives in your laptop bag costs £10 and weighs nothing. Don’t over-buy — a 10-port powered dock is wasted if you only ever plug in two things.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can a USB hub slow down my devices? Technically yes — all devices share the bandwidth of the host port. In practice, low-bandwidth devices (keyboard, mouse, webcam) use so little bandwidth that you’ll never notice. The only scenario where slowdowns occur is transferring large files to multiple external drives simultaneously through the same hub.
Why does my external hard drive disconnect when plugged into a hub? Insufficient power. External hard drives that are bus-powered (no mains adapter) need more current than an unpowered hub can provide to all its ports. Solution: use a powered hub, or plug the drive directly into the laptop.
Do I need a USB-C hub for a USB-C laptop? If your laptop only has USB-C ports and you need to connect USB-A peripherals, yes. Many USB-C hubs also add HDMI for monitors and SD card slots, making them multi-function adapters. If your laptop has both USB-A and USB-C ports, a USB-A hub may be cheaper and sufficient.
Can I daisy-chain USB hubs? You can connect a hub to another hub, but it’s not recommended. Each hub adds latency and the power delivery becomes unreliable. If you need more ports, buy a single hub with more ports rather than chaining two smaller ones.
How long do USB hubs last? Indefinitely, typically. They have no moving parts and minimal components. The most common failure is the cable — if the hub stops working, try a different cable before replacing the whole unit. Powered hubs can outlast the laptop they were bought for.